Bwindi sits in the far south-west, eight to nine hours from Kampala by road through Mbarara. So the first day is the drive: across the Equator at Kayabwe, through the Ankole longhorn country and up into the terraced Kigezi highlands, arriving at Rushaga in the late afternoon.
The second day is the trek. At the trailhead briefing the rangers set the rules: eight trekkers at most to a gorilla family, seven metres’ distance, and the chance to hire a porter. The walk can take thirty minutes or six hours, depending on where the family fed the night before. Our trackers keep daily contact with the park rangers and know each habituated family’s territory. Your hour begins when they are found.
The third day brings you back to Kampala or Entebbe in time for evening flights. Rushaga has the most habituated families of Bwindi’s four sectors, which is why it carries the widest permit availability.